Kronstadt -failing the photoetched parts

When those 3 minutes are over, you go back to the cellar and put the brass plate in a mix of 1/8 water and photo revelant stuff -I don't know the word, but it's the product the photographers use to develop the pictures. After 3 or 4 minutes a picture starts to show, and here you can see the catastrophe, because the '"holes'" in the pic are because of the dust grains that attracted the photo resistant product..

Photoetching failing step 3

Once the plate is covered with dried photo resistant stuff, the next step is to put the photocopy on acetate over the plate and then to recover it with a sheet of glass. then put under the light for 3-4 minues. (I have been reading 2,20mn)...

Photoetching failing step 3

Next step is to try and get '"a photo sensitive brass sheet'". So then. I bought several 0.2mm small sheets of brass at a local RC shop and proceeded to spray some photosensitive resin on the plates in a dark place -for the light not to interfer when the stuff is drying. Big problem: any grain of dust falling on the still wet product led the liquid to coagulate near the grain of dust because of the capilarity, which means I had a lot of trouble to get an even surface.

Photoetching failing step 2

The next step is to print your drawing and to go in a photocopy place where you will be able to make one copy on acetate -transparent plasic if you prefer, you know teacher's stuff.the price was 0.57€ one piece at 5 minutes walking from home. kinda cheap. Now there is another mistake here -anybody? okay, the following tomorrow

Some drawing for the photoetch -first failure

Okay, now I can tell I will be doing a little bit of a Sokol class destroyer, from the gun to the first chimney. To be honest, the whole will be a little bit *compressed* so that it may fill on a short surface. The first step is to do some drawings with a vectorial drawing software, you just do in black and white whatever bits and pieces and nuts and bolts you need. When you know those softwares, this is a fairly easy job to do -when you don't, well, just ask somebody who knows because itcan take ages to do. Now did anybody noticed my (not so) deliberate mistake? no? well later then..

Sorry for the silence

Much to do here.. And then I have been spending 3 weeks failing miserably at doing some... *HOMEMADE PHOTOETCHING* Indeed the big Canet gun i have been building was standing on some holed floor, some circular piece of metal holed everywhere -something i would have no chance realizing by hand. Even a great modeler I know who holed his floor with a Dremel tool failed at doing something perfect, so think about me with my 2 left hands.. anyhow, here's the story of my miserable failures (in several says and steps) hoping you won't do the same...

Rise and Shine!

that's one of those good moments in a year when i start a new diorama! Well, to be honest the previous one is not really finished as I still have some issues with the framing, but then I spent a bit of time coding *2* different WIP -if you want the Kotkebel one, you can still get it by activating the kink above :)

Dust and scratches

of course A month in the garden shed didn't do much good to the dio -plenty of dust here and there, fingerprints on the resin when I trimmed the bottom etc. i will have to need at least one day of work to get it back together..
And then I started a new diorama too!

Cleaning the ground cover

THE thing i hated with the dio -the borders and the way the ground cover seemed to stop at half an inch from the actual framing.
So i did a little operation and added a new fern near the border and used some plaster to get the framing right again...

Triming underside the diorama

Then i had to trim the whole underside of the diorama so that the whole look of the scene+base may appear the flatest possible.
You notice here the underside of the sea is actually quite transparent..