Well, something I didn't tell in time: the plastic box I used as framing forthe resin had been filled with plaster on the underside to prevent leaking, so the first job I had to do was to remove the plastic and the plaster. despite the generous amount of oil I had been coating the borders, i still had some troubles to get this done
So well, time for self critic!
It's all on the picture below
So that kept me busty for a good 2 hours applying dark washes and more or lessdiluted Future.The real trouble was indeed that all this resin creeping up the plants!! On some angles it really looked awful and Icould not tolerate that.So i basically removed the plants, cut theresin down, carved some holes with a drill and a cutter and inserted several other plants. Then I used 2 or 3 coats of Humbrol GlossQuote to level the water. my trick to get a realistic finish with this thick varnish is to first apply it and then to BLOW on the surface!
Next pictures, it's Rolling Thunder ascompleted and end of the blog :)
Thanks goodness the weather is excellentwhich means the resin will dry fast enough. I need to put at least 4 different coats of resin, and use probably 8 or 10 colours for that one.
indeed every summer since a few years I visit my parents who live near a big swampon French west coast, and I always liked the look of the water in the summer, itreally takes a lot of colours, mainly of the decaying leaf sort, like dark red,yellow orange, dark green brown. Very beautiful colours but with a slight perfume of malaria (even if youâ€™re unlikely to get malaria in the west of France).
Well, I donâ€™t know South East Asia, but I thought that using those colours would certainly fit â€“and they are also a far cry from me having a huge Apocalypse Now poster in my bedroom when I was a kid, because the poster also had those colours.
So well, all the tinting was done using oils, both opaque and transparent.The first coat was some dark green browntransparent oil which I thought would be good on the dark areas of the diorama(near the walking path, below the crashed electronics). So I bent the diorama andproceeded to put that first coat of resin that way.
Then I did some red colours â€“I used a mix between the aforementioned hueand opaque red (not too much so that the transparency would stay) and appliedit further to the right of the diorama.
Now really consider what I am doing: I had some comments about the terriblecolours and scruffy looking background I was using for the diorama, but reallythat was the point: the real colours of the water will be provided by the resinitself! This is why I left a bit of pink here and there, or some white orbright orange, because pink + transparent dark green resin does really something quite weird and really un-pinkish ;)
Thatâ€™s like chess guys, you have tothink one or 2 or 3 steps in advance ;)
Then another thing I should mention, is that the further you will be looking to the right of the diorama, the more the water will be opaque. Indeed the yelloworange part is the place where the sun reflects and tints the water. When thesun does that you canâ€™t see beneath the water anyway. Hut then - did youguys ever tried to look at fishes in ponds? If the pond is in the shade, then you can see beneath the water quite better, and thatâ€™s the reason why thewater is almost see through on the left.
To sum up that banter : no sun = transparency,sun=opaque
Well, now letâ€™s dry all that, because I will have a lot of corrections to do afterwards â€“both concerning colours and the ratio of matt-gloss of that diorama
So now time to fit the plane and the figureon the base -I forgot to tell yesterday that some of the cutting on the basewas to allow the plane to fit near the path.Thanks to some help I got on Aeroscale(Steffen and Tim), I was rightfully directed to some F-100 decals that wouldsuit for a F-105, and indeed when I got those they really fitted with my ownplane.in truth it was some 25 years that lastused some decals and gosh how the quality improved! Using only Future, I wasable to twist those letters in all directions to fit the painfully twistedcurves of my fuselage -of course i had to carefully cut those in the shape ofthe different broken panels.
But then i started being really afraid. As you can see on the diorama, thefuselage is way darker on the left side, and brighter with pure aluminium andgold colours on the right side (that's some lightning effect I want to get).But then those decals just were of some dark grey/blue flat colour from left toright, they really didn't fit at all! Suddenly they made my diorama look likesome toy model kit.So hey, no choice, optivisor, 003 brush andlet's paint over the decals with some brownish hues where we need them and herecomes my relief back again.Actually, even if my picture is rather bad,I can tell you there is nothing left of the initial decal colour, but it was all worth it!
Okay, now after having applying the grass, better paint it. As the original colour was really too clear. Remember thatthere will be hopefully some lightning effect so that all the left part for the diorama should be left in some sort of shadow. So I painted the base of thegrass in some sort of dark brownish green paint and painted the tip of the grass leaves facing the plane in some sort of electric green.
On the first picture you can see the effect I tried to do comparing right side of the picture with the unpainted left side.
But really what I also had to do was to complete the covering of the base of the grass tufts as well as painting the path in a more suitable colour than my vaguely tinted acrylic gel. So the second picture actually shows my mixes between paint, thick acrylic gel and pigments.
Last picture shows the complete path as painted. The rest of the ground looks really scruffy but I will repaint it next
Look at thisâ€¦ Silflor grass, one of diorama makingâ€™s worst capital sins.
Why do i say that, after all itâ€™s Â« convenient Â», Â« realistic Â».
Hey itâ€™s because everybody uses it the same way, so now whenever you lookat some pics taken at a fair you see the same grass here and there.
My fault, I used it here *sigh*
Well, so that i canâ€™t be accused using it exactly like everybody elsedoes, here is my method. This grass comes in tufts glued on some sort of driedglue base. So my first reflex was to cut each tuft in 3 to 5 parts so that icould rearrange each tuft in a more convenient fashion.
After that I prepared a mix between paint Pigments (Mig here) and heavy acrylicgel so that I could cover the base of the grass with the mix in order for thegrass parts to look like they really grow from the mud..
The last picture shows all the grass on the mud path.
I have been too much in a hurry on that one,hence something i was not very satisfied about.
Did you guys ever saw some rice field ? looks like some sort of cobweb,with some narrow mud passages between each square of water..
What could look rather nice would be to put the plane near one of the crossesthose mud passages are doing, sort of open the scene on the left side of thediorama.
So i put my Dremel and basically destroyed what i did the day before innarrowing the path. I was actually so much surprised by the bad quality of theplaster and its fast drying time that I completely forgot of tinting it thefirst time around. Well I corrected that this time and used some black ink totint the plaster.
Here is a very crowded working place indeed.. some bits ofairbrushes, Model Air paints everywhere. And finally the worst brand of plasterI ever bought. With big grains in it â€“itâ€™s suppose to be okay forwalls, but i would hesitate using it even for this purpose. Anyway, itâ€™sperfect for ground cover.
I will also use some dry moss as well as acryclic texture gel with sand in it.
So okay, letâ€™s mix some plaster with moss and letâ€™s apply it on thebase.. and then paint it using thise mix of valejo paints as shown on the topleft of the pictures as well as more Citadel inks.