Here's another view. You may notice that the glass sheet to which I glued most of the elements is *smaller* than the upper surface, hey, that's because I need some placeon each side to pour the elements! Now you may ask why i didn't glued the elements to the upper glass sheet which will end up being the bottom of my mould? well, that's because I want the final water/resin to be easily unmouldable. This way, i will be able to grease efficiently all the surface.
In this drawing (just send me a mail to get it big size if you will), i explain all the ways of the resin and how to bypass this '"retracting'" thing. the only way is just to mould the base while cutting everything below waterline. The following pictures should help you understand is the idea doesn't speak for itself
So well, that was the theory. duro you see stays very plastic when it dries -i used it so that it would'nt broke when i would glue the leaves on it. It sure works, but then the stuff stays too elastic at those thin-ness rates i am working on! So i did only 4 of them that way. Then yesterday night I did 17 using some thin piano chord -it worked but then they all have the same thickness which is also a bit of a problem... So tonight i will try with stretched platsic sprue under a flame and we will see! I need at least 30-40 of those plenty of work still....
here are all the ingredients to create some reeds -well except 2 of the main ones! So the trick is to coat a small sheet of paper with superglue -it then takes a weird plastic texture and gets a lot stronger and very well cutable. Then cut all the leaves one by one! Then do some tubing with Duro so that one end is thinner than the other one.