Products heads up diorama blog

Metalic pigments from Uschi van der Rosten

That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.

So I spent the whole of last week thinking very loudly that plane modeling was the worst hobby on earth. I mean, scribbling the panels back after the Mr Surfacer, building and inserting a Aires cockpit in 1/72...
So what you see is the scratchbuilt underside of a F-8 Crusader wing. First image is after the Alclad work, not tops mainly because the needle is mostly out of service thanks to my usual rough handling of delicate material.

Alclad II on f-8 crusader engine bay

Second pic is me with some oil paints doing some sort of dark shadows -and mixing them with Uschi's metalic pigments (yeah it somehow worked). Then I found out that the pigments themselves were doing some nice shadows (3d pics). I had to take care of the Chrome one which is just too bluish for my tastes (and the current project). I then realized I could mix those pigments with regular AMMO like modeling ones, especially with blacks or greys..

Uschi van der Rosten metalic pigments applied

4th picture is me using Uschi's trick, ie buffering the surface with a q-tip and miracle! it worked, you have a real high shine on a very tiny surface which here was the top of my wire layers, what I needed actually. Now for smaller q-tips.
Uschi van der Rosten metalic pigments bottles
Just fell i was using the stuff at about 20% of its capacities, but it was enjoyable. the real downside I see with this material is that Uschi didn't put out a wider range of colours. I would have loved a copper or gold tint, not to mention a bright silver -even if my buffering the steel pigments coat, I almost got some silver at one point.

fional weathering of the F-8 Crusader with Uschi van der Rosten metalic pigments

Mr Paint on helmets

That's me trying the Mr Paint paints. They're opaque inks / Alclads basically, they smell (stink) just like the Alclads and they're absolutely ideal to work with my direction of the light techniques.
So first picture is some Russian helmets primed with Alclad white on one side and gradiently to Black where the sun don't shine. (I know "gradiently" is not English) put you get the idea.

Second picture is a whole spray with some kind of luminous green Mr Paint does, it gets darker on one side, very light on the other.

Third picture is a final spray of Yellow Mr Paint where the sun hits.

Actually quite a lot of layers of yellow. Being sort of inks those create a very subtle overlay.

Those effects I used to work with GW inks, but they don't dry that fast while the Mr Paint does very quickly. And they also leave a very nice glow / glossy effect.
The final picture show a corner of a diorama I am working on. I used several other coats when the elements were in place.




Flex Pad on horse sculpting

The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices

Flex I files on horse

Flex I files on horse

Flex I files on horse

Pebeo's outliner (Cernes relief)

I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.

It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)

It is also ideal to make ripples straight from the tube -after applying those, you just have to blend them a bit with the water surface to get a top result.

I have been noticing that the cernes retracts less than regular acrylic gel, but I may be dreaming on that one. I should indeed make some tests in order to see whether this is actually a new product or a repacking of regular acrylic gel. Whatever the tip of the product works wonderfully.

Pebeo Cernes relief Outliner

Pebeo Cernes relief Outliner

Various techniques for the Firebird diorama

I have less time now to do SBS in forums or my own site like I used to, but yet i thought I could share some of "my" techniques that i used for the Firebird diorama. product placement? for the most part, say this to my bloody wallet!!
Mr Paint -now it's been less than on year i found about those, but I now can't live without. Fact is, I have been using Citadel inks for decades now whenever I wanted some glazing on my vehicles (boats mostly). Now I just spray some of my own mixes over gradients of black to white primer an  I get the colour and lightning I want. The downside to those (except the price) is the fact you just can't find any "blue" or "red" or anything for diorama making really. You have to go through "Albatros L-39 from Czech army 1980-1990 green" type of descriptions which as far as i am concerned is not very useful (wtf is an Albatros L-39??)
Mr Paint on a T-35 turret
you see? nice direction of the light! thanks to that (oh dear) US NAVY gloss Blue or whatever, if you prefer a dark blue grey ;) (but i love you Mr Paint!)
Mr Paint on a T-35 turret
simple trick here, as those are inks they accumulate in the recesses hen you spray too much of them! here it left the grey primed upper surfaces of the DT intact...
Mr Paint to paint a Degtyarev machine gun
Ääh, My old chum Uschi, and his lovely logo. His metalic powder I only have good things to tell about. for the use I have of those, any of the 3 pots he sells are equivalent and I always use the first one I find. Well, they *play with the light*. On some angles you won't notice anything but you turn your head a bit, the lighting source changes and then they're bright as silver! Love those.. I used them for the railway tracks of my Hell diorama to a great effect (I thought)
Uschi's metalic powders
Weathering... I was first a bit doubtful about those ready made products all invented by the one and only Mig Jimenez. But then I tried them and I thought they were great. Truly. Now like every ready made product, I would'nt use them "as is". that is I can't seem to find exactly the right tint everytime I need one so I mix them quite a lot! The Blue for Panzer Grey and the more sandy stuff are among my preferred (and used there with regular oil paints) 
AMMO Mig weathering products