That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.
So I spent the whole of last week thinking very loudly that plane modeling was the worst hobby on earth. I mean, scribbling the panels back after the Mr Surfacer, building and inserting a Aires cockpit in 1/72...
So what you see is the scratchbuilt underside of a F-8 Crusader wing. First image is after the Alclad work, not tops mainly because the needle is mostly out of service thanks to my usual rough handling of delicate material.
Second pic is me with some oil paints doing some sort of dark shadows -and mixing them with Uschi's metalic pigments (yeah it somehow worked). Then I found out that the pigments themselves were doing some nice shadows (3d pics). I had to take care of the Chrome one which is just too bluish for my tastes (and the current project). I then realized I could mix those pigments with regular AMMO like modeling ones, especially with blacks or greys..
4th picture is me using Uschi's trick, ie buffering the surface with a q-tip and miracle! it worked, you have a real high shine on a very tiny surface which here was the top of my wire layers, what I needed actually. Now for smaller q-tips.
Just fell i was using the stuff at about 20% of its capacities, but it was enjoyable. the real downside I see with this material is that Uschi didn't put out a wider range of colours. I would have loved a copper or gold tint, not to mention a bright silver -even if my buffering the steel pigments coat, I almost got some silver at one point.
So first picture is some Russian helmets primed with Alclad white on one side and gradiently to Black where the sun don't shine. (I know "gradiently" is not English) put you get the idea.
Second picture is a whole spray with some kind of luminous green Mr Paint does, it gets darker on one side, very light on the other.
Actually quite a lot of layers of yellow. Being sort of inks those create a very subtle overlay.
Those effects I used to work with GW inks, but they don't dry that fast while the Mr Paint does very quickly. And they also leave a very nice glow / glossy effect.
The final picture show a corner of a diorama I am working on. I used several other coats when the elements were in place.
I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.
It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)
It is also ideal to make ripples straight from the tube -after applying those, you just have to blend them a bit with the water surface to get a top result.
I have been noticing that the cernes retracts less than regular acrylic gel, but I may be dreaming on that one. I should indeed make some tests in order to see whether this is actually a new product or a repacking of regular acrylic gel. Whatever the tip of the product works wonderfully.