Something i am not ashamed of: using somebroom hair for my small rice-field.
but then not any ole broom!!
Nope I need a broom whose tip is actually *pointy*, not *square*, that's VERYimportant.
Then, I use some string and make a knot over a few hair. I cut the hair and setthe bottom of it in CA glue Then like for Tsushima II, i built a sortof plastic box that will hold everything, especially the rice field's water.. left is the plastic, right is the originalplan i made for the diorama. You may notice the 17 or so rice plants.
Here is the plastic box built around theplastic base. there are some borders on the *underside* too because i will haveto "tune" the ricefield.
As you can see, all are fixed using a small Magic Sculp lump.
that's it, If i want all the little plants to be roughly of the same height, Ihave to press out the plants more or less through the holes I carved.In the end I have this.. think that 3 to 5mm of the plants should be underwater which should end up having those smallrice plants popping out of the water..
Here is a very crowded working place indeed.. some bits ofairbrushes, Model Air paints everywhere. And finally the worst brand of plasterI ever bought. With big grains in it â€“itâ€™s suppose to be okay forwalls, but i would hesitate using it even for this purpose. Anyway, itâ€™sperfect for ground cover.
I will also use some dry moss as well as acryclic texture gel with sand in it.
So okay, letâ€™s mix some plaster with moss and letâ€™s apply it on thebase.. and then paint it using thise mix of valejo paints as shown on the topleft of the pictures as well as more Citadel inks.
I have been too much in a hurry on that one,hence something i was not very satisfied about.
Did you guys ever saw some rice field ? looks like some sort of cobweb,with some narrow mud passages between each square of water..
What could look rather nice would be to put the plane near one of the crossesthose mud passages are doing, sort of open the scene on the left side of thediorama.
So i put my Dremel and basically destroyed what i did the day before innarrowing the path. I was actually so much surprised by the bad quality of theplaster and its fast drying time that I completely forgot of tinting it thefirst time around. Well I corrected that this time and used some black ink totint the plaster.
Look at thisâ€¦ Silflor grass, one of diorama makingâ€™s worst capital sins.
Why do i say that, after all itâ€™s Â« convenient Â», Â« realistic Â».
Hey itâ€™s because everybody uses it the same way, so now whenever you lookat some pics taken at a fair you see the same grass here and there.
My fault, I used it here *sigh*
Well, so that i canâ€™t be accused using it exactly like everybody elsedoes, here is my method. This grass comes in tufts glued on some sort of driedglue base. So my first reflex was to cut each tuft in 3 to 5 parts so that icould rearrange each tuft in a more convenient fashion.
After that I prepared a mix between paint Pigments (Mig here) and heavy acrylicgel so that I could cover the base of the grass with the mix in order for thegrass parts to look like they really grow from the mud..
The last picture shows all the grass on the mud path.
Okay, now after having applying the grass, better paint it. As the original colour was really too clear. Remember thatthere will be hopefully some lightning effect so that all the left part for the diorama should be left in some sort of shadow. So I painted the base of thegrass in some sort of dark brownish green paint and painted the tip of the grass leaves facing the plane in some sort of electric green.
On the first picture you can see the effect I tried to do comparing right side of the picture with the unpainted left side.
But really what I also had to do was to complete the covering of the base of the grass tufts as well as painting the path in a more suitable colour than my vaguely tinted acrylic gel. So the second picture actually shows my mixes between paint, thick acrylic gel and pigments.
Last picture shows the complete path as painted. The rest of the ground looks really scruffy but I will repaint it next
So now time to fit the plane and the figureon the base -I forgot to tell yesterday that some of the cutting on the basewas to allow the plane to fit near the path.Thanks to some help I got on Aeroscale(Steffen and Tim), I was rightfully directed to some F-100 decals that wouldsuit for a F-105, and indeed when I got those they really fitted with my ownplane.in truth it was some 25 years that lastused some decals and gosh how the quality improved! Using only Future, I wasable to twist those letters in all directions to fit the painfully twistedcurves of my fuselage -of course i had to carefully cut those in the shape ofthe different broken panels.
But then i started being really afraid. As you can see on the diorama, thefuselage is way darker on the left side, and brighter with pure aluminium andgold colours on the right side (that's some lightning effect I want to get).But then those decals just were of some dark grey/blue flat colour from left toright, they really didn't fit at all! Suddenly they made my diorama look likesome toy model kit.So hey, no choice, optivisor, 003 brush andlet's paint over the decals with some brownish hues where we need them and herecomes my relief back again.Actually, even if my picture is rather bad,I can tell you there is nothing left of the initial decal colour, but it was all worth it!
Well, something I didn't tell in time: the plastic box I used as framing forthe resin had been filled with plaster on the underside to prevent leaking, so the first job I had to do was to remove the plastic and the plaster. despite the generous amount of oil I had been coating the borders, i still had some troubles to get this done
So well, time for self critic!
It's all on the picture below
So that kept me busty for a good 2 hours applying dark washes and more or lessdiluted Future.The real trouble was indeed that all this resin creeping up the plants!! On some angles it really looked awful and Icould not tolerate that.So i basically removed the plants, cut theresin down, carved some holes with a drill and a cutter and inserted several other plants. Then I used 2 or 3 coats of Humbrol GlossQuote to level the water. my trick to get a realistic finish with this thick varnish is to first apply it and then to BLOW on the surface!
Next pictures, it's Rolling Thunder ascompleted and end of the blog :)
I had one friend home telling me some nice icy effects didn't render too well on my pictures, so here is a video. Music by Thomas Köner, first track of the Teimo record.