Seddul-Bahir diorama blog

the photoetch plates #3

Depending on the amount of clogging of the acid, the first holes may appear after 15 mn -or way more, just check every 5 mn to be sure.
*be careful* of not dropping any acid on your floor or clothes or those are ruined!

Photoetch plate done!

Here it is completely finished. this is actually the double of the one I used for the lower hull. i needed a second one so that i could cut bits from it to put on the down side of the hull.
I start working on the detailing this part of the hull thios evening!

Let's begin with the beginning...

here was the fret for the lower part of the hull as done in a drawing software.
The point is that their must be the less possible white left, as those empty places will get bitten by the acid.
->the less copper in the acid, the more your acid bath will sty efficient.
Notice the rivits plates.

let's fix the photoetch

So now I had my second fret ready. It's in a way better state than the first one. i finally understood what i did '"wrong'" with the first one so that it looked so err, rusty.
It's quite important that i am able to control these kind of effects if i want to succeed the whole thing..

Anyway, I attach it using superglue and some clamps so that i don't get in trouble with the round shape

The Rivits

Now I cut out the rivits from what's left of the photoetch fret -it's quite convenient to work this way as it would have been hell to use some granbdt line type rivits to do the work..

Fixing the rivits

You seee that there is a lot of those rivits to be fixed on the damaged portion of the hull as each cross section holds with at least 8 of them! Lots of work but it really looks nice. Notice that I also fixed some bits of plastic cross section, so that it looks like the torch of the ship cutter went through it (only way to go away with the weird way in which the ship has been cut!)

The portholes

Well, I got some issues with the upper hull this week-end. i somehow forgot to do one of the photoetch fret so this part is in standby still i manage to create it. That's a long process which has in a way nothing to do with real model making!
But in the meantime it seems that one of the 3 goals I wanted to reach with this diorama is finally reached: this is the *streamlining of the photoetching process*.
It's still a bit long to create one fret, but I think i really master the process and am able to do the fine parts I need.
It seems the only downside to my method is the quality of the printing to the acetate/transparent paper.
Here is the fret I used for the portholes: