Okay so it wasn't Monday but Tuesday. Having a small kid means you go to sleep early. So the first part of the pictures shows the kind of glue i use, and also the plastic brush I use to apply this kind of glue, it's a '"paint shaper'" or so they tell. So what i am doing is just rolling the sleeve against a match so that it creates some of the folds you have as the lapel of the sleeve is of a smaller diameter than the sleeve of course. Once i have some nice folds, i cut the sleeve like you would have normally for a shirt and then i glue a folded-up sheet of cig paper to have a stronger feel about that lapel. Then I set apart the unglued part of the lapel from the sleeve so that the whole could get more pliability once I will shape the whole shirt.