Please visit my new website

I have a new website at www.distant-shores.com its aim is to gather all the nature centered websites I have been doing those past few months, 

This is a bit lame, but I need to change the server of this site which is so slooow, and also to reactivate cdiorama.com





Latest posts

Succeeding homemade photoetch #1

-First thing you must do, take your drawing software and draw the parts you need . This will prove probably the hardest thing to do for most. -You notice that the drawing is entirely symmetric, you will see why soon. -Then you must not fear of cramming your drawing, even with stuff you won't be needing as the more empty space there is, the more the acid will have to work and the more it will be out of order because of clogging.

Photoetching failing last step

And here is the result.. Okay, now if I have wanted to do the bismark after 40 years under the water, this coulod have been cool. I alm indeed modelling another wreck, but it's a recent wreck, I need rust but not that kind of rust.. So then it went on for 20 days, failing and failing until I didn't had any brass left and began to wonder a bit... next time that will be to explain how to *succeed*!!

Kronstadt -failing the photoetched parts

When you have washed under water the plate, you can put it in a FeCL3 bath. that's called '"percholure de fer'" in french, '"Ferric chloride'" in English maybe? Anyway it's the acid you can find in any electricity shop!

Kronstadt -failing the photoetched parts

When those 3 minutes are over, you go back to the cellar and put the brass plate in a mix of 1/8 water and photo revelant stuff -I don't know the word, but it's the product the photographers use to develop the pictures. After 3 or 4 minutes a picture starts to show, and here you can see the catastrophe, because the '"holes'" in the pic are because of the dust grains that attracted the photo resistant product..

Pages

Products heads up

Most of the mail I get from this site is about techniques and materials, so I thought it could be nice if I would both show and explain the stuff I use

Various techniques for the Firebird diorama

I have less time now to do SBS in forums or my own site like I used to, but yet i thought I could share some of "my" techniques that i used for the Firebird diorama. product placement? for the most part, say this to my bloody wallet!!    

Pebeo's outliner (Cernes relief)

I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.

It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)

Flex Pad on horse sculpting

The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices

Metalic pigments from Uschi van der Rosten

That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.

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