Once the plate is covered with dried photo resistant stuff, the next step is to put the photocopy on acetate over the plate and then to recover it with a sheet of glass. then put under the light for 3-4 minues. (I have been reading 2,20mn)...
This is a bit lame, but I need to change the server of this site which is so slooow, and also to reactivate cdiorama.com
Next step is to try and get '"a photo sensitive brass sheet'". So then. I bought several 0.2mm small sheets of brass at a local RC shop and proceeded to spray some photosensitive resin on the plates in a dark place -for the light not to interfer when the stuff is drying. Big problem: any grain of dust falling on the still wet product led the liquid to coagulate near the grain of dust because of the capilarity, which means I had a lot of trouble to get an even surface.
The next step is to print your drawing and to go in a photocopy place where you will be able to make one copy on acetate -transparent plasic if you prefer, you know teacher's stuff.the price was 0.57€ one piece at 5 minutes walking from home. kinda cheap. Now there is another mistake here -anybody?
Okay, now I can tell I will be doing a little bit of a Sokol class destroyer, from the gun to the first chimney. To be honest, the whole will be a little bit *compressed* so that it may fill on a short surface. The first step is to do some drawings with a vectorial drawing software, you just do in black and white whatever bits and pieces and nuts and bolts you need.
Products heads up
I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.
It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)
The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices
That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.