This is a bit lame, but I need to change the server of this site which is so slooow, and also to reactivate cdiorama.com
So now i try to mess up a bit with thephotoetch -first you may have noticed that none of the parts were attached,they tend to go here and there in the acid bath so you have to be careful and filter thoroughly, but then after not much trimming to do.
Here are the parts for the cockpit, i'mgoing to solder it over the week-end to get stronger bonds and add a shatteredcanopy for good measure as well as adding some rivets
So here I am back to this photoetch plate.I have to reckon that the French product is -well-somewhat better than theBritish one, more sensible, but has a great downside it's that the varnish ituses is also way more fragile (look at the big cut traces on the plate), sowhat to choose?..
Once all this work is done you have to actually print the fret on some transparent paper, glue both sides together onthe edges (where the drawn targets are on the pic) and insert a special photoresist coated brass plate Ã¢â‚¬â€œwhich is figured here still with its stickers attached on both sides.
Products heads up
I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.
It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)
The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices
That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.