Talking of tedious things to do.. Using a small and old 1/0 brush, I dipped it in rust coloured paint and passed it through most of the holes in the craddle! In some cases, I first did with some dark rust coloured paint, and then did it a second time with a less loaded brush with a lighter shade.
This is a bit lame, but I need to change the server of this site which is so slooow, and also to reactivate cdiorama.com
Now a last rusty trick -I pick up a Vallejo paint and i *don't* stir it, so what goes out of the tube is only some thinner. I apply the thinner and I sprinkle some pigments. When the whole is set, no doubt that a small proportion of the pigments will still be in a dusty shape -so I create some run offs in the right sense with a dry brush!
In my Tsushima diorama, i had to apply the rust on a white paint -this went quite smoothly, but if I had to apply the rust on a black or dark coloured ship the things would have been different. I have been observing the fences near my home and it seems that before attacking the metal, the rsut, first discolour the paint near the rust's borders. So here's my discoloured green mix; I added some yellow for the discoloured areas that will be situated in full sunlight.
Products heads up
I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.
It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)
The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices
That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.