I use the same technique for 15 years! first I roughly mix black and leather paint with a bit of water -quite a bit in fact, the mix is pretty liquid, then i apply the dark mix precisely where the rust will be. then, when the paint is still wet, i blend some leather coloured paint unevenly on the top of the mix. then -with a paint still wet -I load some pigments on the brush that i dried more or less with a tissue, and i lightly touch the surface. The trick is done!
This is a bit lame, but I need to change the server of this site which is so slooow, and also to reactivate cdiorama.com
To prepare the rust, i need some pigments (Windsor & Newton) as well as '"leather'" coloured paint + black. I use Vallejo. I also need the top of a DVD case, why? because when you mix your pigments you tend to blow a biot of air here and there, and the borders are here to help you not to tint your working surface. the colours are: yellow, red, van dyk brown, black, sienna and burnt sienna.
One day late compared to what i wrote, sorry for this. Time to explain something about this diorama: i want to create some light effect a bit comparable to the one I did on Koktebel -which means, a sundown, which will tint all the colours from one specific angle.
Products heads up
I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.
It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)
The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices
That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.