Just let dry overnight and detach the stuff from the glass with a blade and that's it! As the green stuff always stays kinda elastic, you won't break anything while cutting them out from the glass surface. The water lillies produced this way are very thin and certainly better than you could find anywhere else -even if using some laser cut paper, and I don't even mention photoetch.
This is a bit lame, but I need to change the server of this site which is so slooow, and also to reactivate cdiorama.com
Then use a modelling knife and STILL THROUGH THE TRANSPARENT BIT OF PLASTIC, scribe some of the leaves '"forms'" (sorry, i can't find the right word, that's '"nervures'" in french).
Then use the bottom of your X Acto knife and press your ball flat on the greased glass surface (you can also use a tile for instance) using some bit of greased transparent plastic to avoid direct contact between the metal and the green stuff -otherwise the green stuff will glue to the metal of course!
Easy and good looking water lillies in 5 steps -it will certainly look better than any othe rmethods, believe me :) First, take a flat surface and grease it (I have been using some table oil!) Then make some small Green Stuff balls.
Products heads up
I was sent that Pebeo Cernes Relief product some time agio and liked it straight away. Its fine tip allows me to make joints between the stuff i embbed in water and the stuff itself like my graves here.
It dries just like regular glossy Acrylic gel that you can find in art shops or Valejo's Water Effect (which is exactly the same stuff)
The reason I use those flex-pad instead of other solutions is seen here: I have been owning the same since 4 years and even though mine are in bad shape they still work alright. I love the "blade tip" which allows to sand in the crevices
That's a hobby sort of posting. I recently bought Uschi van der Rosten's metalic pigments and well, I used to know Alex before he was Uschi you see and this kind of posts can't do him wrong.